If Grenache is the king of southern Rhône reds, then what is the region’s star white variety? Grenache Blanc may be the most widely planted, but I would argue the case for Clairette, or Clairette Blanche to use its full name. Clairette is usually found in blends, but I’ve been encountering pure Clairette increasingly frequently. To get a clearer impression of the grape, I tasted as many wines as I could find that contain at least 80% Clairette. I was expecting to find 10, perhaps 20. I ended up with 70.
TOUGH AND BEAUTIFUL
It’s not an aromatic grape, but it nonetheless has a floral softness and a deeply Provençal character; it’s richly textured, with a full, luxurious consistency that’s balanced by deep-set, if gentle acidity. It also performs well in hot climates – which might explain why its star is in the ascendant, not just in France, but around the world.
Clairette originates from southern France, and today it’s grown mainly in the southern Rhône. Its name might refer to its pale-yellow berries, but it could also be because of the light underside of its leaves. Once grown in huge volumes here, plantings have declined in recent years, but thanks to its
