In 2022, the Rhône experienced its hottest and driest growing season since 1950 – even more so than 2003, a vintage burned into the memory of local winemakers. So I approached this year’s tastings with some trepidation. Extreme conditions rarely make for balanced wines.
Avery different picture began to emerge as I started tasting. Rather than boozy behemoths, I found middleweight wines with just-ripe berry fruits and moderate alcohol. Some were lean, even, with green, unripe tannins. Never before has a vintage so confounded my expectations.
The drought started early in the year and barely let up until harvest; combined with the intense heat (it was the hottest May on record), it caused many vines to stop growing in order to conserve water. Some winemakers, such as top Hermitage producer Jean-Louis Chave, believe this is
