The finest way to arrive in Berwick-upon-Tweed is by train. This gives ample time to take in the coastal scenery, equally mesmerising whether you arrive from Scotland or from England. From the north, the railway line runs close to the cliffs around St Abb’s Head and the deep ravine of Eyemouth; from the south, it affords tantalising glimpses of Holy Island followed by the long empty sandy beaches of Goswick, Cheswick and Cocklawburn. Actually, those arriving from the south probably get the best deal as they also cross Robert Stephenson’s magnificent viaduct that strides imperiously across the River Tweed.
And it’s the town’s position overlooking the Tweed Estuary, and with its far-reaching views up and down the coast, that made Berwick such a prized