Cook's Illustrated

KITCHEN NOTES

What’s the Best Vegan Egg Wash?

A skim of conventional egg wash (typically one whole egg mixed with a little milk or water) brushed on before baking boosts the flavor and visual appeal of all kinds of baked goods. In a classic wash, the egg’s proteins and sugars trigger Maillard browning and the creation of hundreds of new flavor compounds, while its fat lends glossy shine. But what’s the best alternative for vegan recipes?

I rounded up eight plant-based products—unsweetened soy, oat, and almond milks; vegan mayonnaise, butter, and egg; aquafaba (chickpea canning liquid); and refined coconut oil. Most of the products contained protein, fat, and sugars (including the milks, which have naturally occurring sugars despite being unsweetened). For my test, I brushed the products onto scones, rolls, and pie dough before baking them, comparing them to the same items

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