ou can keep your Auguste Escoffiers, your Fanny Cradocks, your Ramsays, Olivers, Delias and Yotam Ottolenghis, because when it comes to being the gatekeeper of cooking, first century AD Roman gourmet Marcus Apicius surely has everyone’s number. For it is to him that the Roman – ‘On the subject of cooking’ – is attributed. OK, so admittedly it isn’t quite as old as the Yale Culinary Tablets (Mesopotamia circa 1700BC, obviously), but it has some corking recipes of its day.
