I first hunted Tanzania (then Tanganyika) when I joined Robert C. Ruark and the legendary Harry Selby while reading “Horn of the Hunter-A story of an African Safari.” Since childhood, I have fantasized about the ‘old days’ of safari that were rugged, wild, and unspoiled by civilization, best described in Ruark ‘s book: “Deep in the guts of most men is buried the involuntary response to the hunter's horn, a prickle of the nape hairs, an acceleration of the pulse, an atavistic memory of his fathers, who killed first with stone, and then with club, and then with spear, and then with bow, and then with gun, and finally with formulae.”
My safari took three years to plan and save for. My outfitter was Spear Safaris, affiliated with Old Nyika Safaris LTD, owned by Mike and Helen Angelides based in Arusha, who expertly navigated the bureaucracy to make it happen. They hold the license on the wilderness concessions known as Lukwati North, Chunya Lukawati and Chunya Msami, comprising 1.5 million acres divided into three hunting blocks, untamed, unspoiled and remote. The closest native village is a three-hour drive from the outside boundary of one of