RISK TECHNICIANS

Mountainous waves cause the bravest warriors to respect fear in a unique way, because mortality grasps at their jellied spines. Holddowns require superhuman lungs, as whitewash threatens to tear limbs from bodies of big-wave surfers. Bring shallow reefs, rock shelves, and remote locations into the equation, and disaster is ready to detonate. With every take-off, big-wave surfers run the risk of dislocations, perforated eardrums, paralysis, and in the case of Sion Milosky—and too many others—death.

On March 16th, 2011, the surfing community lost a respected waterman, a young father and a beloved friend, Sion Milosky. This was seventeen years after the drowning of big-wave icon Mark Foo. Both men were surfing the infamous Mavericks, off the coast of Northern California. And unfortunately, big waves mean big risks.

Mavericks isn’t the only break where surfers have lost their lives or were seriously injured. Even the most well-versed surfers are, at times, no match for Mother