or centuries, Paris’s highest and most purely “French” culinary scene has been defined by haute cuisine, with a very specific kind of ingredients, tone, and approach–and reserved solely for those who could afford the elite pricing. “Over 20 years ago in France, restaurants were somewhere to celebrate special events, not to go to daily,” notes Sarah Michielsen, owner of the new restaurant Parcelles. It wasn’t until the ‘90s, when chef Yves Camdeborde introduced what food critic Sébastien Demorand defined as , a movement that combined “bistro” and “gastronomy,” that French haute cuisine became accessible, affordable, casual, and democratic. “With bistronomy and cheaper menus, but almost the same quality of products, people started to
