ROCHELLE CANTEEN & ST JOHN AN ORAL HISTORY
By the early 1990s, Margot was living in London, working her way round its most fashionable restaurants, including The Eagle, London’s first gastropub, and the nearby Quality Chop House (a design-world favourite – Peter Saville rarely ate anywhere else). Meanwhile, Fergus had completed seven years of studies at the Architectural Association, but ever more at home in the kitchen, converted himself into a chef of rigorous convictions. Then Fergus met Margot. Here, family and friends from every part of London’s creative community tell their story.
In order of appearance
Annabelle Harty, sister of Fergus. Runs architecture practice Harty and Harty with her husband Stephen
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, chef and food campaigner
James Moores, owner and developer of Rochelle School. Runs Linley Farm with wife Diana Guinness, providing organic meat, vegetables and fruit to St John and Rochelle Canteen
Sadie Coles, founder of contemporary art gallery Sadie Coles HQ
Max Wigram, independent investor, owner of The Three Horseshoes pub in Batcombe, Somerset
Melanie Arnold, co-founder, with Margot, of Arnold & Henderson
Trevor Gulliver, co-founder of St John
Alice Rawsthorn, author of Design as an Attitude and co-founder of Design Emergency
Peter Doig, artist
Sarah Lucas, artist
Alcides Gauto, maître d’ at Toklas. Front of house at Rochelle Canteen, 2007-2016
Lee Tiernan, founder of Black Axe Mangal. Various roles at St John, then head chef at St John Bread and Wine, 2003-2013
Anna Tobias, founder of Café Deco. Sous chef, then head chef at Rochelle Canteen, 2013-2020
James Righton, musician, husband of actor Keira Knightley
Molly Goddard, fashion designer
Annabelle Harty
Fergus and I have always been best friends. No rivalry, no discord. We grew up in a big puddle of being happy in Regent’s Park, though Fergus was disastrous at school. He was so dyslexic, he could hardly read or write, though he was always opinionated. Luckily, entrance to the Architectural Association was by portfolio and interview, so he got in without a problem. We had a tiny flat in King’s
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