Wallpaper

ROCHELLE CANTEEN & ST JOHN AN ORAL HISTORY

By the early 1990s, Margot was living in London, working her way round its most fashionable restaurants, including The Eagle, London’s first gastropub, and the nearby Quality Chop House (a design-world favourite – Peter Saville rarely ate anywhere else). Meanwhile, Fergus had completed seven years of studies at the Architectural Association, but ever more at home in the kitchen, converted himself into a chef of rigorous convictions. Then Fergus met Margot. Here, family and friends from every part of London’s creative community tell their story.

In order of appearance

Annabelle Harty, sister of Fergus. Runs architecture practice Harty and Harty with her husband Stephen

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, chef and food campaigner

James Moores, owner and developer of Rochelle School. Runs Linley Farm with wife Diana Guinness, providing organic meat, vegetables and fruit to St John and Rochelle Canteen

Sadie Coles, founder of contemporary art gallery Sadie Coles HQ

Max Wigram, independent investor, owner of The Three Horseshoes pub in Batcombe, Somerset

Melanie Arnold, co-founder, with Margot, of Arnold & Henderson

Trevor Gulliver, co-founder of St John

Alice Rawsthorn, author of Design as an Attitude and co-founder of Design Emergency

Peter Doig, artist

Sarah Lucas, artist

Alcides Gauto, maître d’ at Toklas. Front of house at Rochelle Canteen, 2007-2016

Lee Tiernan, founder of Black Axe Mangal. Various roles at St John, then head chef at St John Bread and Wine, 2003-2013

Anna Tobias, founder of Café Deco. Sous chef, then head chef at Rochelle Canteen, 2013-2020

James Righton, musician, husband of actor Keira Knightley

 Molly Goddard, fashion designer

Annabelle Harty

Fergus and I have always been best friends. No rivalry, no discord. We grew up in a big puddle of being happy in Regent’s Park, though Fergus was disastrous at school. He was so dyslexic, he could hardly read or write, though he was always opinionated. Luckily, entrance to the Architectural Association was by portfolio and interview, so he got in without a problem. We had a tiny flat in King’s

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Wallpaper

Wallpaper3 min read
World View
A new book, published by Rizzoli, celebrates the world of Molteni & C, as the Italian furniture company marks its 90th anniversary this year. Titled Molteni Mondo. An Italian Design Story, it features photography by Jeff Burton and artistic direction
Wallpaper6 min read
Newspaper
Hermès’ diaphanous attire for S/S24 is a clear winner for sultry summer days Hot and heady summer days inspired Véronique Nichanian’s latest Hermès menswear collection, which was infused with a mood of languid sensuality, as if her man for the season
Wallpaper2 min read
Perfect Slices
Our obsession with Milanese pizza spots started during Salone del Mobile last year, while looking for a recommendation for a quick bite. So we asked around, and realised the city’s design community is extremely opinionated on pizza: in a matter of ho

Related Books & Audiobooks