EUROPE*

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* and a little bit of Asia that most people think is Europe (Turkey, we are looking at you)…

FIVE LOCAL DISHES EVERYONE MUST TRY IN CAPPADOCIA

Take away the hot air balloons, fairy chimney tours and Instagram shoots; every traveller who visits Cappadocia is going to need to eat at some point. The challenge? To steer away from the döners and meatballs and try something unique to the region. Keep your eyes peeled for:

Testi kebap

Listed on English menus as ‘pottery kebab’, cubed lamb or beef mixed with tomatoes, garlic, chilli and peppers is sealed with dough and cooked on a fire for two to three hours.

Mantı

Turkish ravioli (smaller than the Italian version) filled with minced meat and served with a healthy dollop of garlic yoghurt, melted butter, chilli and mint. Note: this dish is quite labour-intensive, so do expect a decent wait time for your lunch.

Yaprak sarması

Occasionally referred to as dolma, yaprak sarması are stuffed vine leaves that can take two forms: the cold, vegetarian version served with a healthy lick of olive oil, or the hot, meat and rice version, again served with yoghurt. If the menu says zeytinyağlı, you're looking at the former version.

Kuru kaymak

This tasty dish is similar to clotted cream, except it's dried flat like a thin piece of bread. It's made from many litres of fresh local milk and served with honey and can often be found on breakfast tables.

Kabak tatlisi

A much-loved local dessert, pumpkin pieces are cooked (usually baked) in a sugary syrup and then served hot with a heavy sprinkling of crushed pistachios. Dilvin Yasa

Island life in Istanbul

Anyone who's been to Istanbul will tell you that the city is not for the faint-hearted. There's the traffic, a 24/7 orchestra of honking horns and screeching tyres, and the crowds and the chaos of ancient landmarks crisscrossing two continents. Happily, peace and harmony can be found in Büyükada, the largest of the nine Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara and a veritable summertime wonderland.

The magic-carpet ride back in time starts with a short ferry journey from the ports of Bostanci or Eminönü to postcard-perfect Büyükada, which is lined with seaside restaurants, historic Ottoman mansions, beach clubs and ice-cream vendors. The island is actually still part of Istanbul itself – a fact confirmed by the presence of the city's famous felines, which are just as prevalent – and interested in what you'll be eating – here.

The best way to make the most of the island's pine-tree heavy atmosphere is by hiring a bicycle at the port (until recently bikes and horse-drawn carriages were the only way to get around) and cycling past the wooden homes concentrated in the Nizam and Maden areas and up towards Aya Yorgi Hill, home to both the Aya Yorgi Church and the lookout. From there it's up to you: will it be a long afternoon at Yada Beach Club, a swim at Halik Koyu plaji (beach), a seafood lunch at Eskibağ Teras Restaurant or endless vişne (sour cherry) ice-cream as you meander by the shoreline? The correct answer, of course, can only ever be ‘all of the above’.

For those keen to make their Büyükada adventure last a little longer than a daytrip, the island offers a solid range of boutique hotels including Aya Nikola Otel and Çenar Konak. Dilvin Yasa.

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A SLOWER PACE ON MYKONOS

Word is there are a few celebs in town, from Elon Musk to Hamish Blake. My friends are partying at Scorpios and Super Paradise, the hottest beach clubs in Mykonos, on the other side of the island. But not even an invitation to their $50,000-a-week villa is tempting enough to lure me from my accommodation.

O is the latest luxury resort from the familyrun Myconian Collection, a group of 11 hotels spread across four locations. Developed during the quiet time of the pandemic, O captures the essence of that slower pace of life: a true oasis in a famously lively destination.

The glamorous pool area is perfect for a lazy day in the sun, with a DJ playing chilled music in the evenings. Next to the al fresco bar is a private slice of Ornos Bay. I spend my lazy days moving between them in relaxed rotation.

A cool perk is the shuttle service to the group's other properties so guests can dine at different restaurants every day. On Monday, I stay on site for a poolside dinner of misoglazed salmon and delicious Greek chardonnay.

On Tuesday, I dine with my villa friend at Efisia, the waterfront restaurant at the Myconian Ambassador Hotel, a member of Relais & Châteaux. In a sheltered alcove, under a full moon, we enjoy a seven-course degustation of seafood and slow-cooked lamb, finishing with a