DestinAsian

Changing Its Game

IT IS NOVEMBER, and the animals of South Luangwa National Park are as parched as the rain-starved landscape. I watch as a thirsty puku antelope flits defiantly past half a dozen lazing lionesses on its way to the shriveled Luangwa River. Tempted by the prospect of an easy meal, the big cats arch their backs, then collapse, sapped by the heat.

South Luangwa, a 9,000-square-kilometer swath of woodland and savanna that harbors Africa’s biggest concentrations of hippos and leopards, is the first stop on a monthlong trip through Zambia with my mother and brother, Samir. We arrive in what is technically the wet season, but the rains are late, as they have been for several years now in this drought-prone nation. Still, the wildlife is as

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