Cowboys & Indians

UTOPIA IN THE DESERT

“THIS IS WHERE IT ALL BEGINS,” said our driver as we began the 15-mile drive up a windy and rocky dirt road that was more suggestive of an off-roading trail than the entrance to a wellness re sort. We were enveloped by jagged mountains and a sea of funny-looking cacti that peered out from the Sonoran Desert in Morristown, Arizona, about an hour north of the Phoenix Sky Harbor airport. There was no sign of civilization. Every few miles, a grimy 4x4 would drive past us causing a cloud of dust that flung small rocks against the side of the SUV, so it seemed unlikely that a luxury resort would be tucked away anywhere close.

It seemed like the middle of nowhere. We drove past a private mine, and I caught a few glimpses of the 10,000-acre Lake Pleasant Regional Park — an outdoor playground for

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