Local big wave hero Matt Howard, a long time friend, rang me while I was at work one day, and once again showed total disgust at my lack of knowledge of the impending swell forecast. Gone are my days of being the narrow-minded surfer who checks the swell and wind forecast multiple times a day. I now feel evolved and at peace being the guy who really does not care about that… foilers can appreciate the ocean no matter what the conditions. As Laird said in a You-Tube video I once watched, “no expectations, no disappointments”. Either way, it did not take more than five seconds on the phone to pique my interest and quickly start analyzing this swell. It was definitely going to be very different from our usual Australian East Coast lows that generally last two days maximum, with a peak swell at night time from the south and are accompanied with gale force onshores at 35+knots that make it near impossible to ride the waves.
