Max Kammerer is as dapper as he is talented. When he’s not plating up petite bowls of chilled cucumber and sorrel soup, wrapped in witty repartee, he’s making vermouth flavoured with black pepper, cardamom and sage. Plus his own tonic. Beverage making – not just muddling cocktails, but truly making – is just one of the hobbies he perfected over the last two years when visitation slowed at Schubert, the restaurant he deftly glides around in the Austrian capital. Kammerer is not the only one with a creative eye here.
Back in the kitchen, Schubert’s chef hand-crafts the covetable ceramics we’re eating from, each the perfect size for daily-changing dishes. When we dine there’s a delicate grilled romaine salad with pickled rhubarb,
