Cook's Illustrated

Fresh Figs

igs are a botanical wonder: They are multiple fruits, or clusters of tiny, inverted flowers. Some types, including the , can produce two crops of fruit a year: The first, in early summer, takes well to this unadorned treatment, thanks to its particularly saccharine, rosy pulp. The flavor of the green , on the other hand, is less pronounced, making it a good candidate for canning. The fig was first planted at Franciscan missions along California’s southern coast in the 1700s. The Golden State now produces 98 percent of fresh figs sold commercially in the United States, the Black Mission and larger, paler being among the most popular, but one needn’t live there to grow them: Varieties such as the are cold-hardy and can survive the winter with some care. Dark-green stripes are the calling card of the , or striped tiger, fig, and its interior is striking as well, boasting raspberry and citrus flavors. Many ancient Romans mention figs in their writing, including Pliny the Elder and Cicero—their inspiration may have been a cultivar like the , a strawberry-fleshed fig that originated in central Italy. The on the other hand, originated near Paris; its flavor is a beguiling mix of berry, honey, and light acidity. Another botanical oddity? The most common figs are of the Adriatic type, meaning they self-pollinate, but many figs, such as the and , are of the Smyrna type, meaning they require the assistance of tiny wasps to enter them and pollinate their internal flowers. These figs are considered more desirable, with more tender skin and a robust, jelly-like flavor.

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Cook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated5 min read
The Accessible Luxury of Tinned Fish
Some foods are practical and pantryfriendly, and some make you feel like you’re treating yourself to a refined delicacy, but it’s the rare food that can do both. Enter tinned fish. Invented in the early 1800s as a protein source for Napoleon’s armies
Cook's Illustrated4 min read
Cold-Start Chicken Breasts
In 2020, my former colleague Andrew Janjigian delighted carnivores with his cold‑start searing technique: Place a pair of rib eyes in a dry, unheated skillet; set it over high heat; and flip the steaks regularly as they sizzle in their own fat. The m
Cook's Illustrated5 min read
Equipment Corner
The ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE is our favorite instant-read digital thermometer. Its backlit display, durable construction, and quick and accurate temperature readings make it a reliable choice for any cooking project. ThermoWorks also sells the Therm

Related Books & Audiobooks