Spice Club
THE STARTER course arrived almost festively on a long black paddle slotted with six quarter-sized holes. Inside each one perched a delicate, egg-shaped cracker shell crowned with a dollop of cream and a wee bouquet of microgreens. Unsure how to eat something so small and yet so meticulously structured—the menu called this dish “Namkeen Shots,” a riff on the trendy Indian street snack golgappa—we lifted the fragile orbs like barside tequilas and did our best to take the perfect bite.
The crispy exoskeleton gave way to a smooth core of potato masala gently seasoned with onion and cumin. And then came the sweet, cool finish of that fluffy topping, which registered somewhere between
