I am standing in the courtyard of the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena.
A sea of people wait in anticipation for the drappellone (banner) – the prize for the oldest horse race in the world, the Palio, dating back to the 14th century.
It is about to appear through the doors to the sound of trumpets. Expectation, gasps – and then applause. Thank goodness, they like it.
The Palio defines Siena and its population. They live to fight one another and win the , twice a year – once in July, with the second race in August. Ten of the 17 city wards have a horse in the race. Each has its own heraldry, and each jockey wears the colours of the they represent. They ride bareback on Anglo-Arab horses.