iedmont, where it’s called , may stake its claim on this dish of thinly sliced, slow roasted veal (vitello), coated with a purée of white tuna, eggs and anchovy (the tonnato sauce), served slightly chilled. But while living in Italy, I discovered some sophisticated versions of the dish can also be found in Lombardy, where it’s part of a canon of breezy-but-elegant preparations nibbled upon by the spa-lunch set in Milan. While working on a project with Chef Mark Ladner, we shared
