Porcini Ragù
I’m not sure if you’re allowed to call a sauce that doesn’t contain meat, doesn’t start with a soffritto and that only cooks for 10 minutes a ragù, and yet because of the concentrated flavour of the dried porcini, this has all the intensity of a meat ragù that has simmered for hours. Anyone who has made the spicy mushroom lasagne from Ottolenghi Flavour will realise what I’m trying to achieve here: an abridged version of that ragù with the same intensity, but without the hours chopping kilos of mushrooms (yes, I heard you!). This recipe is inspired by two of my favourite dishes at Ristorante Pizzeria Acone near where I grew up in Tuscany — penne all’Aconese and tagliatelle alla Beppa.
Serves: 2 as a main with leftovers or 4 as a starter | V
40g dried porcini4 tbsp olive3 cloves garlic, very finely chopped (not crushed!)½ tsp chilli flakes (or less if you prefer)10g fresh parsley (stalks & leaves), finely chopped, plus extra to serve½ tsp fine salt1½ tbsp tomato pasteAbout 50 twists of freshly ground black pepper250g dried tagliatelle nests40g Parmesan, very finely grated, plus extra to serve3 tbsp double cream
