Riding the crest of a wave
AMES OTTER is devoted. If you were to search for the most obsessed sportspeople on the planet, a good place to begin might be the nearest ocean swell. Dedicated surfers treat time in the water less as recreation and more as a fundamental urge: show me someone bobbing in the sea at dawn in a wetsuit and I’ll show you a disciple. This commitment to catching waves is nothing new: Capt Cook made the first known record of the pastime in 1778, after watching a surfer in Hawaii. ‘I could not help concluding,’ he wrote, ‘this
