Los Angeles Times

Inside a new TV show's Michelin-starred plan to get restaurant kitchens right

LOS ANGELES — The world of "The Bear" is built from the kitchen up. The FX series, which premiered Thursday on Hulu, dives headlong into the frenetic pace of life in a professional kitchen as prodigal son and chef, Carmen "Carmy" Berzatto ("Shameless" star Jeremy Allen White), returns from one of New York's most lauded fine-dining institutions to take over his family's Italian beef sandwich ...
From left, Jeremy Allen White as Carmen "Carmy" Berzatto, Lionel Boyce as Marcus and Ebon Moss-Bachrach as Richard "Richie" Jerimovich in "The Bear."

LOS ANGELES — The world of "The Bear" is built from the kitchen up.

The FX series, which premiered Thursday on Hulu, dives headlong into the frenetic pace of life in a professional kitchen as prodigal son and chef, Carmen "Carmy" Berzatto ("Shameless" star Jeremy Allen White), returns from one of New York's most lauded fine-dining institutions to take over his family's Italian beef sandwich shop in Chicago. It's a whirlwind reflection of grief and growth inside the powder keg of a cramped kitchen, brought to life with insights from professional chefs, the show's creator and months of staging — or training — within restaurants.

In the wake of his brother's death, Carmy leads a cast of old-school sandwich employees in building a new, more technique-driven the Beef, and to capture the culinary chops of a chef who's dedicated his life to the gospel of Noma, the French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park, White needed all the help he could get.

"'We have to get Jeremy into the kitchen,'" said writer and director Joanna

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