Plaza Khao Gaeng

It’s the details that help make Luke Farrell’s Thai joint on the mezzanine floor of Arcade Food Hall feel like the real deal, amplifying the dishes which balance the right intensity of heat, freshness or sweetness. Oxford Street, cleverly screened off by shutters, seems a millions miles away. The menu is meant for sharing. Khao gaeng roughly means ‘curry over rice’ and rice is needed, both for the aromatic curries, including an orange curry of mussels and squid with sour garcinia, and astonishingly hot dry-fried klua kling muu (pork with chillies, pepper and galangal). Drinks include cocktails and an excellent selection of soft drinks, from cucumber, thai basil and green mango soda to coffees sweetened with condensed milk. Farrell spent 15