You can make decent blueberry pancakes by dropping a few handfuls of fruit into any old batter, griddling the rounds, and dousing the stack liberally with maple syrup. But pair sweet-tart, high-season fruit with a complexly flavored crumb that’s got plenty of cushiony fluff and lightly crisp edges, and your lazy summer breakfast takes on a whole new level of luxury.
Those were the pancakes I had in mind as I got to work on a batter that would stand out against the vivid berries—not just capture them. The dry ingredients were predictable (all-purpose flour, sugar, baking powder,
