TOMAS LIDAKEVICIUS’S CEPELINAI

At Turnips, chef Tomas Lidakevicius is challenging food’s established hierarchy. ‘All my life, everyone’s gone crazy about meat and fish being the stars,’ says the 34-year-old. ‘To be honest, they’re not.’

Reflecting this, his Borough Market restaurant – which is a collaboration with the specialist grocer and wholesaler whose premises and name it shares – celebrates incredible seasonal vegetables using: ‘Meat or fish as the garnish’. For example, even in a dish of caviar-topped celeriac: ‘Celeriac is the star. Same with the Jerusalem artichoke and buckwheat dish with lamb on the side. The menu is 80% vegetables. I’ve learned that I and other chefs were wrong.’

Given the meat-heavy diet Tomas grew up on in Lithuania and his 15 years in top London kitchens, this veg-forward conversion is radical. But Tomas