PINOT NOIR
96 Ken Wright 2019 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Freedom Hill has firmly established itself as one of the top vineyards in Willamette Valley. This wine only burnishes its reputation. The aromas bring notes of cinnamon, spice box, black-tea leaves and dark cherry, still locked up but immediately enticing. The flavors are fresh and intense, with vibrancy and power, but also delicacy and layering. A hyperextended finish sails off into the distance. It’s outrageous. Best after 2027, with a long life beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 13.4% Price: $65
95 Ken Wright 2019 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Shea Vineyard has firmly established itself as one of Yamhill-Carlton’s and, in fact, Willamette Valley’s finest sites. The aromas are enticing, with notes of coriander, peppercorn, cinnamon stick, dried orange rind and cherry, showing pleasing complexities. A full-flavored palate follows, bringing volume and roundness to the black-tea notes. There is juiciness and freshness that provide tension, along with bountiful intensity that only increases over time. Finely combed tannins back it up. It’s a complete stunner, with a very long life ahead it. Best after 2027. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 12.2% Price: $63
This wine is reduced out of the gate, needing time to show its stuff. Behind that are notes of cinnamon, white pepper, brown stem, crimini mushroom, manure and cherry. Generous, full-feeling flavors follow. There’s nuance and detail to it all and also depth. It needs time in bottle to fully come together, but the promise is clear. Give it an extended. —S.S.