BISTRO inferno

It might seem a little ridiculous to be talking about bistros having a moment when a whole battalion of them – places like Melbourne’s France-Soir, Montrachet in Brisbane and Sydney’s Bistro Moncur – have been attracting packed houses with their excellent faux Paris vibes for decades. But it’s hard to deny something’s afoot when the current restaurant scene is up to its globes oculaires in new joints dishing up steak frites, snails and soufflé in glamorous rooms with French theme park interior design.

So what is going on right now? Are