“The Jetavanaramaya was the third tallest building in the ancient world”
“Get ready to experience Sri Lanka’s version of a full moon party,” warned Viraj, my story-loving guide, as we headed deep into the ancient citadel of the island’s first capital, Anuradhapura. Founded in the 4th century BC, the city continued for 1,300 years as Sri Lanka’s foremost urban centre, and my gaze was pulled in every direction as we drove the remains of one of the largest monastic citadels the world has ever seen on a busy holy day. This was just the start for me. I was on a journey that would take me to some of Sri Lanka’s finest treasures, on a route navigating the Cultural Triangle linking the ancient capitals of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy, ending at the island’s historic commercial gateway, Galle.
“You’re very lucky to be visiting Anuradhapura, one of the holiest places for Buddhists on the island, on a Duruthu full moon Poya,” said Viraj as we drove past dagobas and palaces. Every full moon in January, Buddhists commemorate the first visit of the Buddha to Sri Lanka (around 528 BC), and I’d arrived in time to see the festivities.
We headed first to Mahavihara, the oldest of the city’s monasteries. It was thronged by thousands of worshippers drawn to the holy Sri Maha Bodhi tree, said to be grown from a cutting of the original tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. Dressed in chanting, to help with their quest for spiritual contentment.