Couture Youthquake

SENSEN LII

Chinese designer Sensen Lii founded Windowsen, whose moniker is a pastiche of the Windows operating system and his name, in 2019. All about couture for the future, the label offers out-of-this-world silhouettes with cascading tulle gowns and dramatic hues that are often described as “alien couture” and “spatial fashion”, where sci-fi, gaming, sports and couture craftsmanship clash unexpectedly.

“Since building [the brand when I was studying] at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, I’ve focused on expanding the Windowsen universe; every season is a different perspective looking into it,” Lii says. His spring-summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection, for example, is an introduction to the different species on planet Windowsen. Dubbed Monster Heart, the collection has propelled Lii into the public eye—his avant-garde designs and imagination challenging any preconceived notions or stereotypes when it comes to Chinese fashion. The designer places a great deal of emphasis on personality and has been casting everyday people instead of models since his debut. An inclusive cast of musicians, drag queens and dancers walked the runway in motocross-inspired outerwear and chunky sandals with decorative toenail motifs; with crystal-embellished make-up and even “robot” legs. One dress features more than 2.5 million Preciosa crystals as well as high double splits and chain details, staying true to the craftsmanship-heavy nature of demi-couture.

Lii’s shows have become spaces to liberate and express, with guests showing up in their alter-ego looks. Chinese actress Fan Bingbing, who has been