CHAOS, CARNAGE, & CULTURAL COLLISION

Surfing’s Alamo, Nuuhiwa’s last stand, Apocalypse Next, Animal Kingdom meets Sodom and Gomorrah and enter the gates of Hell where surfing collided and stripped down to shed its amateur skin. This was the end of an era. A transitional period in surfing where social change and a hardcore approach were constantly evolving. A definitive moment for many unfolding surf careers.

In October, 1972, the world surfing championships held in San Diego, California, was a train wreck waiting to happen. It has been largely dismissed as a fractured party event held in lousy waves, but it’s the monumental failure that makes this chapter of surfing history so fascinating.

“The 1972 World Championships was the craziest contest I’ve ever seen in my entire surfing lifetime, and I didn’t even get to compete in it,” said Rick Neilsen, co-creator of iconic surf brand Brothers Neilsen and reserve member of the 1972 Australian Team.

At that time, surfing was experiencing an identity crisis. The dream of turning professional or staying alternate was fuelled by an anti-establishment streak. Polarising views tempered by anti-contest sentiment versus commercial gain was seeking a new professional direction. California was the catalyst for that change.

So, what was happening 50 years ago? Robert Kelly Slater was born. Hunter S. Thompson gained notoriety amongst writers and reporters as the head of Gonzo journalism with his Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas book, and would influence current and up-and-coming surf writers.

Richard “Tricky Dicky” Nixon was the American president, and B-grade Hollywood actor Ronnie Reagan was the governor of California. Both had written letters of support for the 6th World Surfing Championships to be hosted by