connected to the ocean
‘The wave is peaking up and there is no time to think. Countless hours spent in the ocean provide the surfer with predictive power: this is the right kind of wave. The surfer turns and paddles, aiming the surfboard slightly to the right-hand side. Without a conscious decision, he knows the required angle for a successful drop on a wave of this size and shape. As he stands up, he doesn’t worry about exactly how to position his feet, or how to balance on the board, or even what he’ll do if he doesn’t make the drop. The surfer is completely immersed in the present moment, super aware and yet completely detached from everything beyond the current experience. His senses are dialled in
