Steenbokpan is not a place you come across by chance. Even Google Maps is mistaken about its location, so you shouldn’t blindly rely on your smartphone to get you there. You have to use your head.
At the crossroads north of town, the road sign indicates that the gravel road going north leads to Stockpoort. The east–west road is tarred: to the east lies Lephalale (formerly Ellisras), and to the west lies Glenover, which is really just a farm and a phosphate mine.
What’s called Steenbokpan lies mostly south of the crossroads, and the township of Lesedi is hidden among bushveld trees a few hundred metres farther along. In the “business centre” there’s a filling station, a shop and the Bosveld Pub & Grill. Here, the weary traveller can manoeuvre his bakkie’s nose into the shade of a marula and seek refreshment inside.
It’s 9am on a Saturday morning, however, and Mechanté Harmse’s fourth birthday party is starting. First, 12 children have to be gathered around a table so the adults can take pictures. Resting her head on her folded arms, Mechanté gazes at the pink Supergirl cake in front of her. Despite the early hour, the cicadas are at full throttle, a
