Military Vehicles

Top 17 US Historic Military Vehicles BUYER’S GUIDE

Decoding Condition

T here are almost infinite variations of vehicles, even of the same model. The pricing shown in this update represents current market trends for typical examples of the vehicle.

Like any collectible vehicle, the price of any historic military vehicle (HMV) is based on a combination of three factors: Condition, rarity, and popularity. A vehicle can be rare but if it isn’t interesting, it won’t be as valuable as an equally uncommon, popular vehicle. Rarity is determined by two factors: Production quantity and survivability. The rarity of vehicles in this guide are rated on a scale of 1 through 5 (1 being the most common and 5 the scarcest). “Rare,” however, doesn’t always mean “valuable.” It has to be desirable, as well.

A “preserved vehicle” is maintained in a “state of suspended animation.” All the flaws, scratches and rust that are present when the vehicle is “discovered” are preserved. While this style of collecting is more popular with vehicle enthusiasts overseas than in this country, it is commonplace in other areas of collecting such as furniture.

The single factor that drives price is — and will always be — condition. Another factor affecting price will be the quality of the restoration.

The term “restoration” is often ill-defined or improperly used in the historic military vehicle hobby. What some call a restoration is actually a “representation,” and sadly, sometimes, only a “characterization.” For a true military vehicle restoration, one must know the history of that particular vehicle. Once known, it is then important to define to what time frame the vehicle is to be restored. This could be as it appeared as it left the factory, or at any subsequent time (June 6, 1944; March 3, 1952, etc.).

The difference between “restoration” and a “representation” is often misunderstood. An example of this could be rebuilding, painting, and marking a Jeep to look like one driven on the beach at Normandy, even though the Jeep you own never left North America. While not a true restoration, this style of “representation” is the most popular with collectors.

Our pricing guidelines follow the standard set years ago by Old Cars Weekly. It uses a 1 to 6 condition grading scale:

1=Excellent: Restored to maximum professional standards, or a near-perfect original — 98.5+ points on MVPA judging scale..

2=Fine: Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original parts.

3=Very Good: Complete and operable original or older restoration, or a very good amateur restoration with all presentable and serviceable parts inside and out.

4=Good: Functional or needing only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or poor amateur restoration.

5=Restorable: Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but is not wrecked, weathered or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.

6=Parts Vehicle: Deteriorated beyond the point of restoration.

Buy the best you can afford. Restoring a vehicle will always be more expensive than buying a finished project.

We want to thank all who contributed their expertise on values including (in no particular order): Jim Gilmore, John Bizal, George Baxter, John Emery, Dave Newman, Russ Morgan, David Doyle, and Peter DeBella

Our best advice? “Buy the best you can afford. Restoring a vehicle will always be more expensive than buying a finished project.”

G-503 FORD GPW AND WILLYS MB 1/4-TON

With the Jeep’s design having been standardized as that of the Willys MB, a second source

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