THE COLLECTIONS

SPRING/SUMMER

LOUIS VUITTON

Nicolas Ghesquière is known to take huge risks in playing with proportions and mixing historical references, and this time, the results are epic. The first look alone was a knockout and signalled that he would riff on the pannier considerably. His curved fairly downward instead of abruptly extending sideways, and bounced with surprising lightness, even as some of the skirts are heavily bejewelled. Some of these pannier looks were styled with oversize blazers, beaded headgear, masquerade eyewear and wrestling boots. While there was a lack of colour (most of the looks being black, white, silver, denim or a combination), everything was theatrical: From the intense music and dozens of chandeliers suspended at the Passage Richelieu, to even the disruptions caused by the Extinction Rebellion protesters who invaded the show.

HERMÈS

The “sunny”, gliding backdrop of the Hermès show, painted by artist Flora Moscovici, was a symbol of hope and shift—which was utterly fitting for the clothing Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented. Indeed, this is the youngest, lightest and most sensual the brand’s womenswear has looked in a few seasons. And while it’s not the first time Vanhee-Cybulski has created cropped tops and baggy trousers for the House, the mood here is athletic and leisurely. There was a lot of skin on show, which looked fantastic offset by buttery leather, and also plenty of equestrian prints. Halter and racerback tops, boxy silhouettes, eyelets and leather piping dominated the line-up. Details also did not go unnoticed. Especially worth noting are the different techniques used to create various square panels, which