National Geographic Traveller (UK)

RED MEETS GREEN

“Perfect timing,” says the receptionist at Riad Nesma, pointing towards the intricately tiled stairs. I bound up and emerge, four storeys higher, to find the huge desert sun dipping low over the medina, tinging it with gold. As the many nearby muezzins strike up their call to prayer, I gaze out over the crowded neighbourhood. Here and there, in similar buildings, others are doing exactly the same. It’s

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