OVER THE RAINBOW
I had just stepped off the de Havilland Twin Otter that brought us from Comodoro Rivadavia, Argentina, to Jurassic Lake Lodge’s private landing strip when my hat blew off. It landed about 30 feet away, and a guest who was leaving the lodge snatched it up and returned it with a smile.
The smile was a premonition of the week to come. I was about to experience an otherworldly rainbow trout fishery, but I first had to make friends with the wind.
I’d known of Jurassic Lake for many years. Its actual name is Lago (Lake) Strobel, and it’s in southern Argentina, about a six-hour drive from El Calafate, the nearest point of civilization. The landscape surrounding the lake is pretty much what one would expect to see on Mars: rough, dry and lifeless. Occasionally, we saw a rabbit or fox or guanaco, but there was very little life except for birds. Lago Strobel is fed by the Río Barrancoso, and there is no outflow. It’s in the middle of nowhere.
In the early ’90s, the land owner decided that the ponds around the lake would be a great place to raise and harvest rainbow trout. Steelhead from the Santa Cruz River and McCloud River rainbow eggs were dumped into the ponds and river, and
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