The call of the wild
INELEGANT EATING, according to Gigi’s Aunt Alicia, has wrecked many a ménage. Boiled eggs, which are liable to stain chins and squelch unaesthetically, or asparagus, which is indelicate in every sense, and lobster à l’américaine — perhaps because the bibulous sauce drips alarmingly from the fork — are the most frequent causes of rupture.
In Gigi’s education for courtesanship, however, Alicia exalted the eating of ortolans. “Slice in half,” she commanded, “with a
