Sex and the singular fisherman
LA TUPINA in Bordeaux is the best restaurant I have eaten in. Michelin stars are counter-indicators. La Tupina has none, never will have. It is an absolute stranger to la cuisine chichiteuse.
Until recently it was run by the man who founded it in 1968, Jean-Pierre Xiradakis. His menus sometimes included lamprey, shad roe, eel and elvers. A few years ago he drove my friend and TV producer Frank Hanly and me 50km north from the city to a hamlet called La Belle Étoile on the right bank of the Gironde where his
