Gourmet Traveller

TALL TALES AND TRUE

SOUL

When I walk into a great bar, my heart skips a beat. What makes it a great bar, you ask? Is it the interior, the warmth or coolness of the air, the smell from the kitchen, the lighting or dimness, the array of exotic bottles of booze, the sweet sounds from the stereo?

It’s all of those things, of course. But the unmistakable sign that it’s truly great is when it has soul.

And how does a bar get soul?

The great pubs of England have it by inheritance. Hundreds of years of the long dead populate the saloons, public bars, parlours and inglenooks. The ghosts of the centuries inhabit the tobacco-and-soot-stained walls. One of my favourites,

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