The Advocate

QUEEN OF DRIVE-THROUGH

People do crazy things in ads, Marge Simpson says on an episode of The Simpsons, “like eat at Arby’s.” The implication of the animated show’s repeated ribbing of the fast-food chain over the years is that even this all-American hetero workingman’s family would be hard-pressed to find something redeeming at the eatery.

So it’s unexpected to have a top chef (and winner) cite Arby’s as a culinary influence. (OK, it’s no Tim Gunn admitting to pandemic lounging in sweats, but still.) Although she may not go there for “the meats,” which is what the chain’s ads currently promote, Korean-American chef Kristen Kish acknowledges her drive-through favorites include “fried

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