Editors’ picks

HARLAN ESTATE’S YOUNG PUP

TINA GELLIE

began as the table wine for Will Harlan’s family and close friends in California’s Napa Valley, made from a barrel selection of the younger vines of Harlan Estate, Bond and Promontory – the properties made legend by his father Bill Harlan. Will was inspired for the name and label by two famous white English bull terriers from his childhood. The first is Kid, literary loyal companion in the 1902 book , and the second is Prince, whose image on the label is one of the Harlan is the current release in the US, the and (£137.67 via Wine Source) are available in the UK, each a blend of 90%-95% Cabernet Sauvignon that sees 30 months in French oak barrels, 50% new, with 14.8% declared alcohol. The 2015 is very expressive and intense: bold, warm and ripe blackberry and vanilla, softer acidity, but lots of chewy tannins for structure. By contrast, the 2016 is more restrained, high-toned and youthful, its brisk acidity lifting a smooth blackcurrant palate that has appealing hints of balsamic complexity, wildflower perfume and a cool stoniness.