Hail, Jalea

DESPITE THE SUCCESS of Mango, the beloved restaurant that introduced many St. Louisans to Peruvian food, the cuisine never took off like it did in other parts of the country. Andrew Enrique Cisneros—a 29-year-old chef whose résumé includes stints at the St. Louis Club, Elaia, and Privado-is aiming to change that. At Jalea [huh-LAY-uh] in St. Charles, he’s preparing Peruvian comfort food with a fine dining chef’s attention to detail.

–G.M.

Can you share takeaways from prior jobs?

I was lucky enough to be in the same kitchen as Pierre Chambrin, a classically trained French chef. He shared some of his personal recipes, some of the items that he prepared when he cooked at the White House. He taught me the different ways to make