Chicago Tribune

Ed Debevic’s is back in Chicago to harass, delight a new generation of diners

CHICAGO — When it comes to Ed Debevic’s, does anyone even register the food, amid all the hoopla? As I detail the experience to my 8-year-old daughter, she, like anyone would, zeros in on the draw of the storied diner at once. “There’s a restaurant where the waiters are mean to you?” She thinks it over, then queries: “If they are mean to me, can I dump a milkshake on their head?” Parents walk ...

CHICAGO — When it comes to Ed Debevic’s, does anyone even register the food, amid all the hoopla?

As I detail the experience to my 8-year-old daughter, she, like anyone would, zeros in on the draw of the storied diner at once.

“There’s a restaurant where the waiters are mean to you?” She thinks it over, then queries: “If they are mean to me, can I dump a milkshake on their head?”

Parents walk fine lines all the time, and Chicago’s iconic retro diner offers up a great moral quandary. “They are snarky,” I say. “You can’t be mean to them. And no milkshake dumping.”

At first, she is incredulous.

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