Cook's Illustrated

Celery in the Spotlight

The essay “A Word for Autumn” by A. A. Milne is, in part, a tribute to the end of summer and a meditation on the changing seasons—but it’s mostly about Milne’s unfettered passion for celery.

“It is as fresh and clean as a rainy day after a spell of heat,” he rhapsodizes about the vegetable, which he feels best captures the “crispness” of the cold months. “How delicate are the tender shoots unfolded layer by layer. Of what a whiteness is the last baby one of all, of what a sweetness his flavour.”

The author is hardly the lone member of celery’s fan club. For centuries, enthusiasts around the world have flocked to the plant: from Egypt and China, where wild varieties were used medicinally as a hangover cure or aphrodisiac, to Greece and Rome,

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Cook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated5 min read
Why We Love Gyuto
The gyuto (pronounced “GYEW-toh”) is best described as the Japanese version of a Western-style chef’s knife. It was developed in the 1870s, during the Meiji Restoration. Japan had recently ended its policy of isolationism and had opened its borders t
Cook's Illustrated5 min read
Equipment Corner
The ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE is our favorite instant-read digital thermometer. Its backlit display, durable construction, and quick and accurate temperature readings make it a reliable choice for any cooking project. ThermoWorks also sells the Therm
Cook's Illustrated6 min read
It’s Always Time for Arroz con Pollo
“I can close my eyes and transport myself [to] when I was little. A beautiful life growing up in Peru,” Claudia Berroa mused as she recalled the “big, delicious food” of her childhood in Lima. During a video call, Berroa, who is the ninth of 10 child

Related Books & Audiobooks