Greek Xinomavro
Latterly considered the king of Greek grape varieties, Xinomavro’s protagonist role can be attributed to several factors. First, the distinctive, heavily scented wines it makes have abundant Greek aromas of dried tomatoes, olive tapenade and thyme, around a core of cherries or strawberries. Second, it can produce some of the country’s most thrilling and highly refined wines. Finally, the wines can age effortlessly for, without exaggeration, more than two decades.
Greatness comes at a cost, as Xinomavro is a capricious variety that requires attention and affection by both the grower and the producer. In the vineyard, the main issue faced is the taming of its high natural yields and the ripening of its fierce tannins. In the winery, the challenge is avoiding over-extraction and stabilising its pale colour, as the variety is low in anthocyanins.
Just like the ultimate diva Maria Callas, who had a
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