In God’s Hands

Think of it as a disaster movie.

I have. For many years now.

To be invited to Hollywood to write a movie about surfing and then have them actually want to make it, and then to talk them into hiring all your friends to do it with you, and then to have to stand by and watch the Hollywood machine turn the story into a compost heap was absolutely heart breaking. But at least my friends and I had a ball making it. People like Matty Liu (who surfed that giant day at Jaws but did not make the final cut), Shane Dorian (who I believe was at a contest in Brazil when I called