THE GREAT BEYOND

wanda is known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills”, although as I travel along its steep, winding roads on our five-hour drive from the capital, Kigali, I begin to think this must be an understatement. Vast rainforest-covered mountains frame lush green-tea plantations that rise and fall in the distance as far as the eye can see; the countryside looks pristine, with not a speck of rubbish in sight. Our driver, Anaclet, explains that plastic bags and packaging have been banned since 2008 and that once a month, there is a mandatory clean-up day called Umuganda—a source of great national pride that has