‘I’d always thought there was nothing better than communism’

EVERY YEAR on 1 May, portraits of Stalin were carried by the workers through the streets of Tirana to celebrate socialism and the advance towards communism. On Workers’ Day, TV programmes started earlier: you could follow the parade, then watch a puppet show, then a children’s film, then head out for a walk wearing new clothes, buy ice-cream and, finally, have a picture taken by the only photographer in town, who usually stood by the fountain near the Palace of Culture

The first of May 1990, the last May Day we ever celebrated, was the happiest. Or perhaps it just seems that way. Objectively, it could not have been the happiest. The queues for basic necessities were getting longer and the shelves looked increasingly empty.

Meanwhile, Europe continued to be in the grip of all kinds of “hooligans” undermining public order. Earlier in the year, Poland had withdrawn from the Warsaw Pact. The communist parties