Cook's Illustrated

Oysters

n oyster’s environment greatly impacts its flavor and appearance—but there are some inherent traits that distinguish the five species commercially cultivated in North America. oysters, found along the coast from New England to the Gulf of Mexico, taste clean and briny. Hardy, they thrive in chilly, muddy waters, a sight that shocked the European settlers who first encountered them at Chesapeake Bay. At the time, Europeans were accustomed to the more delicate , a shallow-shelled species native to its eponymous continent. Because European flats (also called Belons) contain high amounts of iodine and trace metals, they have a strong coppery flavor that some find off-putting; Pliny the Elder, however, was a fan, calling them “a most exquisite dish.” Those intrigued but intimidated by that species’ flavor should turn to the , a native North American oyster some call the “baby Belon.” The moniker refers to both the Olympia’s milder metallic notes and its diminutive size; it grows to only about 2 inches in length. The deep-cupped oyster dwarfs the Olympia, growing four times as fast as some other species and reaching up to 10 inches in length, an ability that has made the Pacific the darling of commercial oyster cultivation. Like Pacifics, oysters are native to Japan, but they can take more than three years to reach market size. Connoisseurs would say their plump flesh and bright fruitiness are well worth the wait.

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