Cook's Country

Chicken Stroganoff

TROGANOFF HAS UNCLEAR origins. Was it, as many food historians agree, a dish made for Count Pavel Stroganoff (or Stroganov)—a Russian noble on the court of Alexander I, a member of the Imperial Academy of Arts, and a gourmet—by his French chef? Did it start as fricassee (a French dish consisting of fried meat in sauce), and did that chef adapt it for the Russian palate by adding sour cream? Or could it be attributed to famed Russian in 1861? The questions remain unanswered, but the dish, from basic versions to more elaborate ones, endures. It hasn’t always been stellar, though—as some of you may remember from the school cafeteria line or a box of Hamburger Helper from your youth.

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