Ventotene

The island of Ventotene is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. It is officially part of the Ponza archipelago off the coast of southern Lazio, but in reality it is very much apart. Measuring a mere 2.8km by 900m, and with a permanent population of around 300, the island is a treasure trove for archaeologists, birdwatchers, divers and just about anyone in search of a terrific holiday. Despite its role in numerous tragic and momentous historical events through the ages, and its current status as a protected natural and marine park, many Italians don’t even know of the island’s existence. The majority of today’s tourists come from the nearest areas on the mainland, around Rome and Naples. I first found out about Ventotene by chance. Beppe, the owner of our local Irish pub, originates from the island and told me about this very special place over few pints one night.

I planned a trip with my partner Malaga as an out-of-season spring weekend. The easy and comfortable hydrofoil from Formia took about an hour. Nearing Ventotene I was struck by the whale-like shape of the island’s profile – the highest point is 139m above sea level at Punta dell’Arco, sloping gradually down to the sea at the village and port at the other end of the island. The proximity of tiny, uninhabited Santo Stefano is also noticeable – after so much open sea, these two islands seem to cling to one another for moral support.

Ventotene, referred to by Homer as ‘Isle of the Sirens’, has changed names even more often than it has changed hands. The Romans used to call it Pandataria, from the Greek for ‘dispenser of all things’, owing to the island’s rich terrain, and over time this has evolved into Ventotene, the reference to wind – vento – being no coincidence. When it blows, it really blows and sailing schools ply their trade teaching kids and adults how to rein in this noble element.

Hotels, especially those situated further round the island